Winterizing Combines and Tractors – Step by Step

1. Fuel tank – fill it up or not?

Main goal – reduce condensation and prevent fuel degradation.

For diesel machines, the most common recommendation:

• Fill the tank almost completely – the less empty space, the less chance for condensation (water) to form inside the tank.

• Use quality diesel and, if long-term storage is expected, a fuel additive (stabilizer):

  • helps slow down fuel “aging”;

  • improves protection against paraffin deposits and microorganisms (bacteria, fungi) in the tank.

In practice:

• At the end of the season, fill the tank completely (or almost completely).

• Add the correct amount of fuel additive according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Let the engine run for a few minutes so the additive reaches the fuel filters and pumps.

2. How to prevent components from rusting?

Rust starts where there is moisture combined with dust, crop residue or fertilizer/salt deposits.

Actions before winter storage:

1. Thorough washing

   • Wash the outside of the combine and tractor, especially around the threshing area, elevators, grain tank and unloading auger.

   • After washing, let the machine dry completely – ideally under a roof where there is good air movement.

2. Eliminate dirt and moisture pockets

   • Blow out areas where dust and grain accumulate (threshing unit, straw chopper, grain tank) with compressed air.

   • Remove soil, fertilizer and fertilizer granule residues from tyres, rims, suspension points and axles – especially if the machine has been spreading fertilizer.

3. Conserving metal surfaces

   • Exposed, unpainted metal (knife sections, augers, fingers, etc.) can be sprayed with a light oil or anti-corrosion spray.

   • Grease points (joints, U-joints, pivots) – pump in fresh grease until the old grease is pushed out.

3. Belts – preventing cracking and deformation

Rubber belts can dry out, crack and “take a set” if they stay all winter in exactly the same position.

What to do with belts:

• Clean belts and pulleys from dust, oil, grain and crop residues.

• If possible, slightly reduce belt tension, so there is no unnecessary static load.

• Avoid soaking belts in oils or aggressive solvents.

• There are special belt care products (belt dressings):

  • use very sparingly and only if allowed by the belt manufacturer;

  • they are not a magic cure for cracking – the most important factor is correct storage conditions (dry, dark, normal temperature, no direct sunlight).

If a belt already has visible cracks, plan to replace it before the next season rather than hoping it will “last one more year”.

4. Rodents – the biggest enemy of wiring and cab trim

For mice and rats, machinery is the perfect winter home: warm, quiet and full of insulation and wiring.

How to minimise rodent damage:

• Leave nothing in the cab!

  • Remove all food, crumbs and trash.

  • Vacuum the cab so there is nothing to attract rodents.

• Openings and gaps – seal larger gaps where mice could easily get in, where possible.

• Rodent control measures:

  • mechanical traps;

  • baits/poison (placed carefully so they don’t endanger pets or livestock);

  • ultrasonic repellents (as an additional measure, not the only one).

• Some people use rodent-repellent sprays for wiring, but the crucial points are:

  • a clean cab,

  • no food sources,

  • regular inspections during winter.

5. Tyres – how to prevent cracking and premature aging?

In winter tyres suffer from:

• UV exposure (if stored outdoors),

• moisture,

• constant load on one spot.

What you can do:

• Where possible, park the machine on a solid, level surface, not on wet soil.

• Slightly increase tyre pressure (within the limits given by the manufacturer) so the sidewalls flex less.

• If the machine stands for a long time, it’s good to move it slightly forward/backward now and then, so the tyres don’t stay on the same contact patch all winter.

• Is it worth using special tyre care products?

  • There are rubber care/protective sprays that help against UV and drying.

  • If the machine is stored under a roof, the effect is less critical, but the product can still offer some protection.

  • This does not replace proper storage – the main thing is dryness and protection from sunlight.

6. Where and how to park the combine to reduce rust?

The ideal option is a dry, well-ventilated shed or barn. The key points:

• no direct exposure to rain or snow;

• no constant condensation;

• no persistently wet floor.

If you don’t have a perfect shed:

• Choose a higher, wind-sheltered location where moisture accumulates less.

• If the machine must stay outside:

  • don’t cover it completely with a non-breathable plastic sheet – this encourages condensation;

  • better to use breathable covers or a roof without sealing it tightly all the way around.

• Keep the grain tank, straw chopper, header clean and as dry as possible.

7. Additional tips before winter

Beyond the points above, it’s worth to:

• Change or at least check engine oil and filters
  – old oil contains acids and soot that speed up internal corrosion.

• Check and top up antifreeze in the cooling system
  – low or old antifreeze can lead to internal corrosion and freezing damage.

• Disconnect the batteries if the machine is stored for a long time:

  • store batteries in a warmer, dry place;

  • recharge them occasionally to maintain capacity.

Summary

Good winterizing is more than just “wash it and put it under a roof”. It’s a systematic approach:

• full tank + fuel stabilizer,

• clean and dry surfaces, lubricated moving parts,

• relaxed belts and proper storage conditions,

• protection of cab and wiring from rodents,

• tyres protected from sun, moisture and constant load in one spot,

• parking in a dry, ventilated place.